This is my third Icarette camera. My first is the made in 1930 and my second was the (model 496) made, as far as I can tell, in 1918.
This Icarette, also made by Ica and not Zeiss Ikon, would seem to be an Icarette II – model 498/1. I say “would seem to be” as I have had a good look in both a German and an American Ica catalogue for 1925 (the last year Ica was an independent company) and the combination of lens and shutter were not on offer in either. The lens is a Novar Anastigmat with a maximum aperture of f/4.5. This is very fast for 1925 and Ica’s catalogues only offer a f/6.5 Novar. I had a thought that my lens was a later upgrade but that would involve a new shutter with a larger diameter lens mount.
The shutter is an Everest Gauthier shutter (it carries Gauthier’s logo on the front) where Ica’s catalogues only offers Ica’s own Automatschluss X with a Novar lens. I know with certainty that this is not the Ica shutter as that only offered three speeds while the shutter on my particular camera offers seven speeds from 1 second to 1/100 seconds. The only Gauthier Everest shutter to offer this speed range was the Ibsor. While Ica offered an Automatschluss shutter with this speed range, (the model XI), this had a horizontal cylinder behind the shutter speed dial. This is missing on my camera (and the shutter is clearly a Gauthier product). Ica have helpfully used their own fascia on the speed dial where Gauthier would usually place the model name. So, has the owner of my camera had an updated shutter and lens fitted to a low spec camera?
Serial Numbers Office
This seems a strange thing to do rather than buy a better camera but it would also explain the absence of the name”Icarette” which I would expect to find under the lens but above the aperture scale on the front of the camera. If so, the work must have been done by Ica (or its successor, Zeiss Ikon), witness the legend “Ica Dresden” on the speed selector dial (a final thought: were both lens and shutter cannibalised from a different Ica model?) Dating the camera is straight forward (ish). Ica used serial numbers of the form of one letter followed by five digits. When Ica merged with other camera makers to form Zeiss Ikon in 1926, Zeiss Ikon carried on with the same serial number system, starting with “L”. This tells us that the last Ica cameras used serial num bars with “K” (they might have used some “L” numbers as well, of course, Zeiss Ikon taking over part way through the series). My camera has a serial number of K53636.
This suggests a date of 1925. This is not helped by the lens serial number of 706481. I am assuming that this is a Carl Zeiss Novar in which case it was made in lateish 1926. Ica ceased to exist in October 1926 so was this camera made by Zeiss Ikon using parts made by Ica? This would help to explain the anomaly of both lens and shutter. Cpc edge modem v818ek driver download. Note on Novar lenses.
It is widely accepted that both Rodenstock and Steinheil made Novar lenses for Carl Zeiss – possibly other lens makers as well. These third-party lenses do not have the maker’s name on them, just the lens model name (Novar).
This makes it impossible to tell who made a particular lens unless there is other evidence available. Most Novar lenses do not have serial numbers but some do. The difference would appear that out-sourced lenses have no serial number but Carl Zeiss made Novars do. I base this on using the Novar’s serial number to date the lens using accepted Carl Zeiss serial number data, giving a date of manufacture that is commensurate with body and shutter serial number data. Time to describe the camera. This Icarette is a taschenkamera – a pocket camera – although, at 610g, it needs a sturdy pocket. While closed, it measures 178 by 90 by 33 mm.
When opened for use, the 33 mm becomes 135 mm. To open the camera, hold the camera so that the hinged baseboard is facing down and press the nickel plated stud by the film advance key. The baseboard should fall open. When clicked I’m place, it is held in place by a chrome plated strut on either side. To close the camera again, you need to press the tops of the struts down until they click and then fold the baseboard up. Once the baseboard is in place, it is necessary to pull the shutter/lens assembly forward. There are two grips just forward of the shutter/lens which need to be squeezed to free the assembly.
Pulling this forward, the shutter/lens assembly will stop at the infinity focus position. The catch for focus is on the left of the baseboard (left, while using the camera). To focus nearer, you need to push the focus scale slightly inwards and pull the shutter/lens forward. The pointer for the focus is behind the lens standard on the left.
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There are four click-stops on the focus scale. Apart from the first, which is infinity, I cannot tell what the focus distances for the other stops are as the faux ivory scale is missing on my camera. The shutter is simple to operate. There is a dial sticking up above the shutter housing – giving this style of shutter mechanism its name: dial set shutter – which rotates to set the shutter speed, the set speed being at the top. This shutter has seven speeds – each being half the time of the previous one (roughly, 1/10 to 1/is not exactly half). There are two other shutter speeds that might not be understood by younger readers.
The first is B (for Bulb – a reference to the early/mid nineteenth century days of photography when photographers squeezed an air filled bulb to fire the shutter). This keeps the shutter open for as long as the photographer keeps the shutter release depressed.
When using this, it is best to use a cable release screwed into the socket near the top of the shutter assembly. This is useful for moderately long exposures of up to, perhaps, 10 seconds. If even longer exposures are required, there is the T setting (T for Time). With T, the shutter opens when the shutter release is depressed and stays open until the shutter release is pressed a second time. Again, a cable release is required to prevent camera shake. The viewfinder on this camera is the small, hard to use, brilliant finder.
When these are in very good condition they are hard to use but they do not age well. The reason is they rely on a small mirror which is bright plated directly onto steel and the steel is usually rusting under the bright plating.
It is all that is available, though. Other,more expensive, Icarette models had an iconometer viewfinder which consisted of a large wire frame attached to the shutter housing and an eye-piece attached to the back of the camera – but this cheap camera does not have one. The brilliant finder is hinged so that it can be used in both portrait and landscape orientation. Underneath the baseboard is a folding brass foot for use when using slow shutter speeds – the camera will stand on a stable, level surface.
If no suitable stable, level surface is available there are two tripod sockets with a 3/8 inch Whitworth thread (old cameras, Whitworth thread – modern cameras UNC thread. The difference between the two is negligible). One of these is under the baseboard and the second on the side of the camera near the hinge for the baseboard. The aperture is adjusted by a very small pointer below the shutter housing.
It is not actually difficult to adjust but is more fiddley than it needs to be. Available apertures are from f/4.5 to f/36 (f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.5, 18, 25, 36). Download game untuk hp java. This is not the standard range we are used to today, but moving from one number to the next is still either twice or half the exposure depending on the direction of travel. To load the film, it is necessary to get inside the camera. The catch for the back is below the (very) small carrying handle. Slide this to one side and the back comes away completely in one piece. The empty take-up spool goes in the end with the film advance key. It is necessary to pull this key out – turn and pull works best.
Once this is pulled out, the nickel plated spool carrier will fold out. One end is on a spring and will pull out to allow easy insertion of the empty spool.
With the spool in place, the carrier folds back in place and the film advance key can be pushed back in place – it needs to engage in the slot in the end of the spool. The new film goes at the other end. There is no key here so the spool carrier folds out easily. The backing paper of the film pulls across the middle of the camera with the printing on the outside. Once the leader of this backing paper has been fed into the slot on the empty take-up spool, and wound on enough to be secure, the back must be refitted (older readers, please bear with me. I have younger readers who come from an entirely digital world). Once the back is in place, the small blind on the back of the camera must be pulled down to reveal an orange window.
Looking at this window, wind the film until the number 1 appears. First, there will be lines and dots. The dots (or circles, depending on the make of film) will get steadily smaller as the number approaches. The negative size on this camera is 6 by 9 cm which is full frame for medium format cameras. You only get eight pictures on one roll of film.
Hello, I try to get some information about the Numbering System of Ica (predecessor of zeiss Ikon from 1909 to 1926). With the merger of 4 companies to Ica in 1909 they started the 'classic Zeiss ikon' number System with letter an number. With the letter you can date the camera, as we are used in the Zeiss Ikon Cameras. Does anyone know if they started in 1909 with the letter 'A'? I have a Ica Plalmos with a 1914 dated Tessar, so the cameras should also be about 1913/14/15 It has the letter 'C' Do you have some dated (maybe my the lens) Ica-Cameras where we could collect the letters here. Also letters of early Zeiss Ikon Cameras would help! Maybe we can get some light in it.
Do the numbers start with ICA or earlier with Huttig? You need to collect serial numbers of all formats/types of ICA cameras ideally to build up a true picture with the lens and shutter serial numbers s as well, so Oren's suggestion is the best option. It won't help that many of the larger cameras were shipped with no lens fitted and the lens of choice was fitted by the dealer or distributor.
Lens and shutter serial numbers can vary by a couple of years, sometimes longer with less common lenses.
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Where to find the serial number on your product?The serial number of your product is displayed at the back of your product or on the service sticker, typically found on the underside or back of your product.Below are some pictorial examples to help you.
Serial Number Camera
OK, this is a long shot, but I have tried really hard (without success) to find an online source for dating Nikon camera bodies. Lenses, no problem - bodies, forget it:frown:!So, I would like to ask for volunteers who know the year of manufacture (or purchase, if bought new) of their Nikon SLRs to post details of their Nikon SLR serial numbers (or at least the first 3 or 4 digits:wink, so that the rest of us can get an idea when our cameras were built.Obviously, if (like me:redface you own Nikon SLRs but don't know the year of manufacture, there's not much point in posting just the serial number here. Still, if we can at least get some posts from those who do have a fairly good idea of the year that their camera hails from, then we could all benefit from that knowledge:smile.This thread is open to any Nikon SLRs (and RFs too, I guess). If we are lucky enough to get lots of posts, then it should be easy for forum members to simply put the model that they are interested in into the 'Search' function and bring up any entries for it that way:smile.
(Personally, I would love to hear from any FA owners who could help me find out what year a 5304XXX serial number belongs to:biggrin.As I said, there appears to be no official source for this info (but please do correct me if I'm wrong), so please take part in the thread if you have anything at all to share. Nikon F100 serial number US2222xxx Date estimated 2002 (based on known dates and serial numbers from other posters)Nikon F3hp serial#173xxxx Jul 1985Just for reference on the F3 bodies, if you remove the back and look on the body where the back hinges, you'll see a 4-place alpha-numeric code. The first place is the month - 1-9,O,N or D, and the second place is the last number of the year. I cannot remember if this was used on other bodies.Mine has the code 75VL. 7 = July, 5 = 1985 based on serial number range.Here's a with info and a few links on F3 serial numbers.And for those who haven't seen it yet, with lens serial numbers.And like you Andy, I have not been able to find a Nikon SLR serial number directory. Check dpreview.com, they have a history of new announcements from Nikon (among others) going back several years.
You'll be able to get the start date for most Nikon DSLRs and their specs too.I maintain the lens serial number site, and make the assumption that the announcement (in most cases) more or less coincides with the start of production - Nikon usually builds up stocks for a month or two before they are available. Beyond that I do record the date purchased new (where possible) as it gives me a rough picture of when other similar cameras were made and the production rates.I had a few requests for camera info over the years and collected some info, but never had enough time to put together a site. I'll see if I can pass on some of the info to you.You'll also need to consider how you will organize all your data. I have a Microsoft Access database which records all the information (type, optical design, version, subversion, individual lens, etc) so I keep all the information well sorted, and I can refer back to any entry if required. I have about 8000 lens entries so far - the site only shows the high and low serial numbers, but I like to record some between so I can be sure the serial numbers are continuous. I suspect the camera serial numbers might be a simpler.Ebay is an excellent source of information - heaps of pictures of old cameras every day - with serial numbers. You don't often get purchase dates for older items but at least you have a good source if other information.Good luck!
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